Levelling

Our servicemen do leveling of the table. Depending on the type of floor the table can take up to four to six weeks to settle. Do not attempt to adjust the level within this period.

If your are trying to level your own table make sure all the feet are wound right in (anticlockwise) and that the center legs do not touch the ground.

With the level placed on the cloth diagonally in the center, find the highest end at which to start. From the highest point, raise the other leg at the same end until they are both level. Place the level once again in the center of the table to check, then adjust the opposite legs to the ones you have just done.

To double check place the level across the width of the end of the table you have just finished. If incorrect check again as your did before.

Test the table by running a ball lengthwise and crosswise over the table slowly to see where the ball rolls. Retest level if ball rolls to one side or the other.

Once completed and leveled slowly adjust the center legs to sit on the floor to totally stabilize the table.

Care of Polished Timber
Regular use of a good quality wood furniture polish will help to create a smooth slippery surface to prevent some scratching.
Care of Billiard Table Clo

Regular brushing in the direction of the nap is essential
The nap on the bed cloth runs from the 'D' to the top spot. On the cushions the direction of the nap varies according to the make of the table. Brush to remove all dirt and chalk dust from both bed and cushions, using only the tip of the brush at the end of the table. Regular vacuuming will also assist in keeping your table clean. Open the vent on the nozzle and vacuum in one direction from the 'D' down.

Occasional ironing in the direction of the nap is desirable
After making sure the table is clean and the fibres are laid in the direction of the nap, use a clean iron (set on Dry not Steam) not too hot to avoid damage to the wool fibres. Never iron the cushions.

You will also need to know...
When a new cloth has been used for a short time, small spots may appear. These are cue stabs (not moth marks) which are caused by players allowing their cues to come into contact with the cloth after striking the ball; an especially common fault - often unsuspected - when the ball is struck below centre These marks will gradually become less noticeable as the cloth ages. This type of damage is caused more frequently if the edges of tips or ferrules are allowed to become sharp or rough or if the tips do not exactly fit the cue. The dropping of balls or rough placing of rests can cause similar blemishes.

The tossing of coins on the table should be absolutely forbidden
While tracking will eventually occur against cushions and in pocket openings. It is part of the normal process of wear. It is caused because the wool fiber becomes bruised or crushed between the hard surface of the ball and the unyielding slate bed. Causes, which accelerate tracking, include lack of brushing to remove chalk, dust, etc which act as an abrasive; the use of damaged or greasy balls; use of excessively powerful shots, which cause the balls to bounce.

Insects will eat your cloth
Moths, silverfish, cockroaches and other insects are also a danger to pure wool cloth. Especially where grubby hands are concerned as many tables are used in conjunction with bars, the risk of spillage and spray from drinks is inevitable. To counteract this problem the following step can be taken.

Use a reputable surface spray on the bed and under the edges of the cushions. A light spray regularly will prevent breeding.

When you leave your table covered for any length of time place mothballs in match boxes (or sew in to old socks to make little pillows) around the table and cover completely.

The condition of the cloth is a major factor in the performance and appearance of your table.